When we navigated to the Jemez Historic Site, we didn’t realize our route was on New Mexico’s Scenic Hwy 4. We soon discovered that the road to the historic site was a destination in itself.
Red Rocks
Not long after turning north on Hwy 4 at San Ysidro, we crossed the boundary line into the Jemez Pueblo. Up ahead, we saw towering red rocks across the highway from the Walatowa Visitor Center. We quickly turned right into the parking area for the Red Rock Trail and started exploring.
This area is sacred to the Jemez people. There are signs along the rocks reminding visitors not to climb them.
There are fences in certain areas to keep tourists from going too far back into the rocks. We were saddened to find that one area, similar to a slot canyon, contained graffiti.
The area hosts arts and crafts shows, powwows, and vendors starting Memorial Day weekend. When we stopped in March, there were only tourists.
Here are a few more photos from the red rocks along Hwy 4 near the Walatowa Visitor Center.
Across from the hiking area is the Walatowa Visitor Center. Inside the center, a small museum displays the history, culture, and art of the Jemez Pueblo. In their gift shop, we purchased a small turtle to join our souvenir family. We also picked up a copy of the Jemez Mountains Vacation Guide. This free publication contains information for each mile marker along scenic Highway 4.
Outside the visitor center, you will find several historical replicas of life in the pueblo. Below is a replica of an ancestral field house.
National Recreation Areas
From Walatowa Visitor Center, we continued north on Hwy 4, entering the Jemez National Recreation Area. Our first stop, the La Junta Fishing Site, was near mile marker 10. We walked the short trail to the shore of the Jemez River and captured a few photos.
Back in the car, we drove about a mile and a half to the Las Casitas Area. This area also features a short trail and access to the Jemez River.
Jemez Springs
We continued north along Hwy 4 towards the Jemez Historic Site. About a mile from the site, Andy saw the entrance to Jemez Hot Springs, quickly detouring us into their parking lot.
He had seen the older building from the highway and wanted a few pictures. After speaking with the manager, we discovered that the historic bathhouse was built sometime in the mid-1800s.
After taking pictures outside, the manager took us on a quick tour inside the privacy fence to the hot springs pools. (We added this destination to our list and visited the pools later during our stay.)
We thanked the manager for the tour and continued the short drive to the Jemez Historic Site (click the link to see that post).
It was early in the afternoon when we left the historic site, so we continued our trip on Highway 4, hoping to see more of the sites listed in the vacation guide.
Our next stop was created over centuries by mineral deposits from a hot spring.
Soda Dam
Parking for the Soda Dam is available along both sides of Hwy 4. In the photo above, you can see the hot spring that flows along the road across from the Soda Dam. Please use caution when driving through here because people are walking back and forth across the highway.
The Soda Dam is a popular place for locals to soak in the mineral springs. While there, we saw several groups climbing the rocks to enter the pools inside the Soda Dam. The slides below offer views of the hot spring inside and outside the cave.
Below is a short video of the water flowing from the Soda Dam into the creek and around the bend.
BATTLESHIP ROCK
Our next stop, Battleship Rock, was formed during the last eruptions of the Jemez Volcano. This large rock formation marks the confluence of the East Fork of the Jemez River and the San Antonio Creek. The site includes a trailhead for the McCauley Hot Springs trail and a picnic area.
JEMEZ FALLS
The last place we wanted to explore along the scenic byway before heading back to the RV was Jemez Falls. The guide we picked up at the visitor center suggested we drive to the day-use area, park our car, and hike the short quarter-mile trail to the falls overlook. We had plenty of daylight left for this short trip, so we continued on Hwy 4 about 9 miles to the entrance gate.
Unfortunately, the gate to the campground and day-use area was locked. Looking around, we saw several cars in a small parking area along the highway, about 30 feet from the gate. There was room for a few more, so we pulled into a spot and got out. It was still daylight, and we really wanted to see the falls.
It was a bit cooler here, and there was snow on the road leading into the campground.
So, we decided to walk the road to the trailhead, figuring that it wasn’t too far.
Of course, it was further than we thought.
We walked about a mile along the road and trails through the woods to the falls from the parking lot along Hwy 4.
The short hike wasn’t hard. But as the sun started going down, we wished we’d brought jackets along.
Visiting the falls and hiking through the campground made it easier to sit in the car for the drive back to the RV park.
We enjoyed our time at the falls and were glad we took the time to see them.
And the snow wasn’t that bad. It was only on parts of the road and trail.
Here are photos from the trail and Jemez Falls. Click on any photo to view as slides.
Here is a short video of the partially frozen Jemez Falls.
The extra time needed for the walk to the falls wasn’t in our original plans. It was about a quarter after 7 when returned to the RV park. Inside our RV was a couple of hungry dogs waiting to be walked.
Scenic Hwy 4 is a part of the Jemez Mountain Trail National Scenic Byway We explored the byway in early March 2018.
Peggy Staver, the author of this blog, is a freelance copywriter specializing in outdoor recreation and hospitality. You can contact her at PSCopywriting.com. The majority of photos are taken by Photography by Andreas. Visit his portfolio here.
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